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Californian wine and the ABC movement

Are you one of those people who routinely rush in to the wine-shop and grab the first buttery Chardonnay from the shelf? Or when you are asked what to drink with the steak, quickly respond Cabernet Sauvignon? You prefer to play it safe? Or do you give the impression of being the meticulous, benchmark wine connoisseur who prefers Oregon Pinot Noir with quail, Edna Valley Grenache with veal shank, Sonoma Zinfandel for lunch, and a well chilled Viognier for light drinking?

Well, I think you have heard about the ABC movement that stands for "Anything but Chardonnay/Cabernet". We could also include Merlot. The fact that it is easy to pronounce is believed to be responsible for the popularisation of this grape variety.

I guess we all like creamy and voluptuous Chardonnays with layers of tropical fruit and can't resist indulging in some of the finest blackcurrant-scented, plummy and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons. But what both the wine-producers and consumers today have realised is that there are many other treasures to discover.

California is a diverse region with different climatic zones ranging from cool breezy hills to hot, arid, semi-deserts, and of course these grape varieties are not always the most suited everywhere. In Europe the focus has traditionally been on origin and drinkers enjoy Chianti, Rioja, Pomerol and Barolo without reflecting on the variety. Grape varieties were chosen to best suit specific soil types, climate and weather conditions. The same is now happening in California, and It is hoped that this approach to wine growing will give better quality wine, with greater diversity in taste, and with distinct local characteristics.

The "Rhône Rangers", a group of pioneer growers such as Joseph Phelps and Randall Grahm, made wines in the 1970s from varieties found in the Rhône valley in France (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Marsanne, Rousanne). Many wines from these varieties are being made today from Mendocino in the north to Santa Barbara in the south. Families with Italian backgrounds are successfully growing Italian varieties such as Sangiovese and Barbera. Indigenous Zinfandel is the same variety as the Primitivo found in Southern Italy. To further complicate matters it actually originated in Croatia, and was known as Crljenak. It is fair to assume that we've all learned to appreciate the "Zin" not merely as the simple "blush-wine" it used to be, but as a variety that can yield wines with great character.

Someone once told me, "You start out drinking Cabernet and end up drinking Pinot Noir." I'm inclined to agree. A more complex, smooth and seductive wine than Pinot Noir, when treated the right way, would be hard to beat. Pinot Noir is a tough challenge though, very capricious and fickle; it doesn't thrive in extreme conditions, and yields must be kept low to obtain character. Thus Pinot can never come cheap, unfortunately. We can find a vast array of Pinot styles ranging from sweet-fruited thirst quenchers to highly elegant collectors' items.

Have a good time discovering the great and diverse wines packed with Californian sunshine! Some recommendations available at Systembolaget
76638	2001 Appellation Collection Fumé Blanc, Beringer, Napa Valley, 139 kr. Made of the Sauvignon Blanc variety fermented in oak, spicy and herbal aromas with a fresh acidity, a good wine for summer drinking.
26551	2001 Delicato Shiraz, Delicato Wineries, California, 79 kr. A good wine with a very good price, packed with licorice, spices and blackberry fruit, perfect when you light the grill.
22248	2001 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel, Zabaco Vintners, Sonoma County, 144 kr. A benchmark Zin where all the parts are right, sweet dark fruits, balanced tannins, a touch of oak and a spicy finish.
22284	2000 Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre, Cline Cellars, Contra Costa County, 129 kr. A very nice wine made from very old vines, this have resulted in low yields and a very good concentration, the alcohol reaches 15,5% but is not obtrusive, a real fruit-bomb!
86242	1999 Bonterra Sangiovese, Bonterra Vineyards, Mendocino County, 139 kr. This organic wine is made by the Sangiovese that originates from central Italy, well adjusted to the local conditions it gives us a wine with Italian backbone spiced with a Californian flair.
22260	2000 Marimar Torres Pinot Noir, Marimar Torres, Russian River Valley, 229 kr. A good manifestation of Californian Pinot, from the cool Russian River Valley this is a smooth and seductive Pinot with aromas of raspberries and spices, well balanced oak and an elegant aftertaste, serve this slightly chilled to grilled halibut, a delicacy.

- Andreas Larrson